What the heck is a gauge swatch?
You’re in a test and everyone is talking about a gauge swatch. What is that? Do you need to do it? (YES) Why?
Well, because if you do not do a gauge swatch, there is a strong chance your finished item will not fit or otherwise meet the intended dimensions, which means all of your hard work on the test will be for nothing. Let’s back up.
What is gauge and what is a gauge swatch?
Gauge is the designer’s way of telling you how many stitches and rows fit in a 4 by 4-inch square on their item, using the hook/needle size they listed in the pattern. (Sometimes a 2 by 2-inch square, if you’re lucky.). This is important to know, because everyone crochets/knits with different tension and techniques. For example, a designer’s gauge with a 5 mm needle may be 20 stitches by 16 rows. If you are a tighter knitter than the designer, the same amount of stitches and rows using the exact same size needle might come out to 3.5 by 3.5 inches.
So, why does this matter? What’s the big deal? It’s just half an inch.
Wrong. It is not just half an inch – it is half an inch for every 20 stitches and 16 rows in your pattern. If, for example, you are making a fitted garment that is supposed to measure 40 inches around the bust, the designer might have you work 200 stitches. If you are half an inch shy every 20 stitches, then your finished garment will be 5 whole inches too small around the bust. In other words, it won’t fit. The same goes for the other way around. If your gauge using the same size needle is 4.5 by 4.5 inches… your supposedly fitted garment will end up being 5 inches too big. Not cool. Neither of these outcomes is acceptable, especially in a pattern test. (More on that below.).
This means that before you make the item, you need to change your hook/needle size until the same number of stitches and rows fit in a 4 by 4-inch square for you too. This process is often called “meeting gauge” or “swatching,” and the end result is a “gauge swatch” that meets the proper dimensions. Start with the same needle/hook size recommended in the pattern and cast on the necessary number of stitches for your gauge swatch (I like to do a little extra, so that I can measure a portion of swatch that does not include end stitches, which can often be a little loose). Then work the number of rows indicated for the gauge swatch in the pattern. After you’ve done this, measure. Is it 4 by 4 inches?
If not, you are going to need to start over. I know! This is so annoying, right? But you have to do it. Depending on whether your swatch is too big or too small, size down or up on your tool and try again. Keep repeating this process until you get as close as possible to the right dimensions. If you are truly unable to meet gauge with any hook/needle size, you may even need to change your yarn.
[*PRO TIP* In crochet, if you’re meeting stitch gauge across, but your rows are too tall or too short, check out this Golden Loop tutorial! Your mind will be blown. ]
But what if you, personally, truly don’t care that the item might be bigger/smaller than intended? Especially if it’s something like a scarf or a shawl… Do you still need to do a gauge swatch? Sorry, but yes. If you’re doing a pattern test, you still need to do a gauge swatch. The feedback the designer seeks from you significantly depends on you meeting gauge. If your gauge is off, your yardage estimates are useless. If your item doesn’t fit right because your gauge was off, then your feedback on the fit and final measurements of the design are also useless. Furthermore, your pictures will not help the designer promote the pattern. In fact, you could even hurt the promotional side of things for the designer. Nobody wants an ill-fitted garment, and if someone sees your pictures of a poorly made item because you failed to meet gauge, the designer may lose potential sales.
So, bottom line, if you do not want to do the work to make sure you meet gauge, don’t sign up to test the pattern.
Here are a few other tips to keep in mind while you are swatching:
First, your swatch should always match the pattern. That means not only do you need to match the stitch pattern indicated, but if the design is made “in the round,” your swatch should also be made in the round. Tension and stitches are different in the round versus flat, so doing a swatch flat when the item is made in the round won’t give you a fully accurate assessment of your gauge.
Here is a resource for knitting a swatch in the round.
Here is a resource for crocheting a swatch in the round. You can also simply double the amount of stitches for the swatch, then connect your ends and begin working in the round for the indicated number of rows.
Second, if the designer indicates that the gauge is measured “blocked,” then you also need to block your gauge swatch. This is because the nature of your fabric may change when it is washed, depending on the fiber content. Honestly, even if the designer does not indicate that the gauge is “blocked” or “unblocked,” you should block your swatch so you know what your finished item fabric will look and feel like, before you get too far. (There will be future posts about blocking, too!)
[*PRO TIP* Note your gauge swatch measurements pre- and post- blocking. This will save you from some panic attacks while you are working if you are counting on your item growing with blocking.]
Third, you should try to gauge swatch in the same conditions in which you expect to make the item. Crocheting in the car or outside in the heat might give you different tension than crocheting on the couch inside with air conditioning. This sounds ridiculous, but you’d be surprised. Sönna of @sundaughterknits (the designer of the pretty cowl in these posts!) has a funny story about this to share with you someday. ◡̈
Now, are there any circumstances in which you do NOT need to do a gauge swatch? If the designer explicitly tells you that you do not need to do a gauge swatch, then you’re in the clear. But if the designer says nothing about a gauge swatch, assume you need to do a gauge swatch.
However, that’s not where gauging ends. Even if you meet gauge by swatching, you should always continue to check your gauge while you are making your item too. The gauge swatch is only meaningful if you maintain the same tension while you make the design. I, for example, often tighten up when I am making a larger item, like a garment, compared to my small swatch. But I also have a tendency to loosen up when I am doing Tunisian crochet. So, I aim to check my gauge every 5-10 rows or so to make sure I am still on the right track. Remember, good tester feedback depends on your gauge consistently matching throughout your project - not just in your swatch.
*Sigh* That was a lot... But gauge swatching really is a critical part of the pattern testing process! The feedback you provide on the finished item and your photos will be all for nothing if you do not meet gauge. Not to mention, you might end up with an item you hate because it does not fit properly. It’s a necessary evil, but it’ll be worth it in the long run, I promise.
Happy swatching!
Have any gauge-related maker horror stories? Trust me, even I have some! Like the time I ran out of yarn TEN ROWS EARLY on a shawl because my gauge loosened up midway through. 😭 Head to my CONTACT PAGE to send me a message with your story and I will compile them someday for a fun roundup, to help emphasize how important gauge swatching is for your makes!
(Please let me know if you’d like your identity to be anonymous when you send me your story.)
Pictured: @TheSkeiniac’s version of the Plant Lady Cowl designed by @sundaughterknits in collaboration with @badsheepyarn (Fox colorway used here).
