Pattern Testing with LovelyByLee
Amanda of @LovelyByLee was one of the first designers for whom I tested a knit garment! It was the Summer of Strawberries top. Since then, I have loved following along on Amanda’s pattern designing journey. She is pumping out so many incredible knit designs and I am always excited to see what’s next! Please enjoy this interview with Amanda of @LovelyByLee, and then be sure to check out her Instagram!
♡♡♡
Amanda is pictured above wearing her Hills & Stone Cardigan (currently in testing, coming soon!). Below she is wearing her Best Buds Pullover, her In The Clouds Cotton Cardi, her Belle Baby Knit Top, her Ray’s Watch Cap, and her Belle Babydoll top! These are all Amanda’s own designs, so be sure to check them out!
1) When, how, and why did you first get into designing?
There are 3 reasons why I began to design. First of all, I really enjoy the creative process. Bringing an imagined look to life is incredibly engaging to me. Secondly, I’m a true crafter at heart. I find myself looking at home decor, clothing and jewelry then brain-storming how I can create it myself with my own flare. Lastly, I wasn’t ever finding the looks that I was hoping to wear. I would sometimes find similar designs, but I always found myself heavily modifying the design to be ideal for my dream style.
I actually began officially designing in my days of high school. My background is in sewing, as I was given my own little machine after hand-sewing lumpy pillows for my friends and family at 7 years old. For my senior project, I designed a quilt. I had to present how I would turn it into a career (and received eye-rolls from my peers). Days after, I was hired to sew a quilt for one of my high school teachers. I then began making my own clothing in college 17+ years ago. After having my daughter 6 years ago, lugging around my sewing equipment wasn’t feasible. So I taught myself how to knit, and traded my sewing machine for knitting needles to satisfy my designing urge.
My favorite thing about designing is that I always have unique pieces to wear. Being able to manipulate fibers into distinctive garments is my obsession. Most of all, I can express myself in my ideal style, which I would label boho-romantic. I create flowing or fitted pieces with a hint of sexiness.
2) Do you remember the first pattern you put into testing? How was that process?
I do remember, cringe a little bit, and then celebrate how much I’ve grown in hosting tests. I need to preface this answer with the fact that I had never even knit another’s knitting pattern, nor been in a test, before designing knitwear. Formerly being knitting-pattern illiterate — I just wrote down notes that made sense to me — I have come a long way. I will touch more on this later when I discuss my pattern revamp process.
I believe my first tested design was my Wrapped In Cozy (a cabled scarf with sleeves, similarly worn like Knitatude’s Wrap Me Up Sweater Scarf). I reached out to a couple of fiber friends that I had met through Instagram and Facebook knitting groups. My entire process was just emailing the pattern to them and waiting for feedback. They were gracious and patient as they provided me constructive criticism via email. I made the changes suggested to me, and that was that. It was simple, low stress, but not ideal for the designing world. As with all things knitting, my testing process has changed quite a bit, which I think is quite similar to other designers' expectations.
3) You use the Facebook platform for your testing. Why did you decide to use Facebook and what do you like about using that platform?
Yes! I love using Facebook to host my test knits. Hear me out, as I know Facebook isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, and many Instagrammers don’t even have a FB. I tend to only use it for my business and knitting communities anymore, honestly. I require those that test for me to have a FB profile, even if it’s only to test or creep on people (haha, let’s not deny we have all creeped on someone).
With Facebook, I can manage my private testing group, which is separate from my actual group tests. I use my group as an incentive for previous testers (of which I feel work well with my testing style), and I cross-reference between my testing chats and my private group with live tutorials and polls.
Those in my group get first dibs on my testing calls and occasional appreciation promotions. Having a pool of testers that I trust has eased a lot of the recruiting stress. However, I do recruit new testers for remaining spots in the Facebook group “Pattern Testers.” I discovered Pattern Testers in their sister knitting group, as it was created due to others experiencing the frustration of testers ghosting or not following through with requirements. It is run by two hard-working admins, and they hold both designers and testers accountable. It is structured and organized, both of which I appreciate. Plus, they weed out those that do not take the testing process seriously. I still come across a couple disappointments here and there, but most are seasoned testers that do not need to be babysat through the process.*
After testers have been selected, I host the tests in a group chat on Facebook Messenger. In the group chat, I am able to send the pattern PDF and updates. While the actual chat format and banter isn’t much different than tests hosted on Ravelry and Instagram, FB Messenger (when viewed in desktop mode, not in a pop-up or app) organizes all uploaded files to a “files” section and collects all photos shared in a “photos” section. Group chats can get messy with having to scroll through all the notes, but I find having the files and photos organized helps eliminate scrolling for those testers who just want to download the recent PDF. Also, I can be tagged in the chat for specific questions (as can others in the group). This helps with replies and notifications!
*Side note, I love to get knitters and testers of all levels. Beginners, do not be scared of my direct use of words. What I mean by “babysat” is having to hound someone to knit and understand a gauge swatch, taking photos and completing their requirements.
4) I also noticed that you have spent a considerable amount of time revamping older designs! What's the story behind that? What are you hoping to achieve with the revamps?
I am so happy that you’ve asked this question! Again, I have three reasons. I have grown as a designer in skill compared to when I first began writing my patterns. My earliest photos are AWFUL and needed to be reshot. I’m not saying my current photos are terrific, but I needed to improve my photo quality. Lastly, not all of my earliest designs are size inclusive.
I have been alternating between new designs and the revamping of my earliest designs. As mentioned above, I began designing knitwear with the sewing process in mind. I created garments without knowing that seamless knitting could be achieved. As with sewing patterns, fabric panels are cut flat then sewn together. My earliest designs are constructed the same way! As I’ve grown as both a knitter and designer, especially conquering skills in knitting and pattern formatting, I knew that my former designs had to be improved. So, I’ve actually re-designed and re-written many of my earliest patterns. It isn’t any less work than a new design though.
My first photos...YIKES! They were taken with a low-quality camera in a windowless bathroom. It was the only area with a blank wall, and I could fit the camera on the bathroom shelf for a timed selfie. I did this because I was avoiding the humiliation of my husband taking my photos. I not only felt silly modeling in front of him, I was also not amused by the 100 bursts he’d take of each pose. It would take me hours to delete his clowning around, so I just took photos myself. I still shoot my own photos, but I’ve since splurged on building a small photo studio in my yarn room. I now have natural light supplemented with umbrella lamps, a backdrop and camera tripod.
So, why didn’t I just take new photos vs revamping the entire pattern? A lot of my earliest designs were given to fundraisers. I no longer had them to take photos. Since I was re-knitting the designs for the photos, why not update my patterns too?
The size inclusivity movement has been wonderful and eye-opening. I was ignorant, and I’m still making blunders from time to time. A few weeks ago, it was suggested to me that I not use body-positive hashtags when my designs were modeled on myself vs a larger body. Upon notification, I immediately understood the lack of sensitivity on my part. I definitely didn’t post size inclusive hashtags to be snide, but I was naïve at how they affected others when I was sharing myself modeling my design. I get it now. I’m a supporter of body positivity and still learning to do better. I’m also appreciative that it was brought to my attention. This relates to my revamps as originally I had designed for S-XL. I thought it was standard, and I was initially intimidated by the grading. When I began designing to 3XL a couple years ago, I knew smaller and larger sizes were still in need. So I improved. All my newer designs are written for sizes XS-5XL, and any pattern that currently does not have those sizes will be redone and improved to better fit all bodies.
So, I am not only revamping earlier designs to fit larger sizes, I am adding alternatives that will allow customization to best fit all bodies (such as options for waist-shaping or without, strap size/length, arm circumference, etc).
New designs and revamps that include sizes XS-5XL: Sweethearti Cardi, Illusionist Sweater, Belle Babydoll Top, Lake Mermaid Tank, Flutter Me Fancy Top, Parfait Tube Top, Hills and Stone Cardigan (In testing), Ronnie Tie Hem Tank, In The Clouds Cotton Cardi, Belle Baby Knot Top, The Pixie Tank, The Pixie Tee
Future revamps that will be adding sizes 4XL and 5XL and hopefully be completed in 2021: Dreamy Summer Sweater, Beachside Breeze Sweater, Wrapped in Cozy, Sincerely Amanda Top, Best Buds Pullover, Betty Babe Dress, Rustic Summer Shrug, Best Buds Tee, Summer of Strawberries Top
5) You're also a yarn dyer! Has the yarn dying had any overlap with your design process? Have you made any designs with your own yarn/do you plan to?
Yarn dyeing has been so therapeutic for me. I am both an impatient and creative person. Dyeing yarn has allowed me to nurture my artsy side with quicker results than designing a pattern. I love color, it is really something so simple that brings me a lot of happiness. Most all of my colors are “OOAK”, but I have been able to recreate most of them easily for custom orders. Otherwise, I just dye my inspirations and include very little planning as I create colorways. It feels good, and it’s that outlet when I need a break from the designing stresses.
I have made 2 designs in my colorways! The Pixie Tank is in my Woodland Nymph colorway, and I alternated my Sea Witch colorway with another teal in my stash for The Pixie Tee. I definitely plan on doing more designs in my yarn, but I am planning one-skein-wonders for those. Stay tuned.
6) What is your favorite thing about the testing process? Least favorite thing?
I’ll keep this simple. My least favorite thing is having testers either ghost or fail to follow-through with the requirements. I dislike having to send reminders near the end of a test for updates, or worse, trying to get a hold of a tester who just disappeared with no word. It is uncomfortable on both ends, but I won’t deny that it rouses negative feelings to just have a tester disappear or fail to complete the test. Granted, there have been very understandable circumstances which may arise. If that is communicated, it is less of a heartache.
My favorite thing is meeting new fiber friends, some of which truly become forever friends. I’ve been friends that I chat with daily through the testing process, and that is definitely the best!
7) If you could give one piece of advice to your future testers, what would it be?
Ha! Just like favorites, I can never pick just one. I’ll limit myself to 2 recommendations.
I would ask future testers to realistically gauge the requirements for the test and be sure they’re able to commit before applying. My requirements are listed on each testing call, and they’re not negotiable.
My next advice is DO NOT skip the gauge swatch. I’m not a fan of swatching myself, but I force myself to do it. It is worth the 20 minutes of swatching, instead of frogging weeks of work when the garment is discovered to be too big or too small. Plus, I can’t get actual measurements and what I need from a tester for fit if their gauge is not accurate.
8) What's next for Lovely by Lee?
I am so excited about Lovely by Lee’s future! First of all, I have some designs that I cannot wait to complete. It will be out of my comfort zone, but I want to design more knits for men and children. A brother to the Hills and Stone Cardigan will be coming after the holidays, and I will be designing a Hills and Stone Cardigan Junior in the near future too!
My really bubbly news is the direction that I will be taking my blog (and possibly neglected YouTube channel). I want to create quarterly blogs that combine all of my favorite pastimes, knitting, reading and eating. I am thinking of calling it, “READ ALL ABOUT knIT”, and it will include a detailed summary of a cherished book, patterns and projects that are related to the book’s theme(s), and recipes for food and drink to further bring the read to life. I’m in a knitting book club, and it inspired the idea.
♡♡♡
Thank you so much for reading my interview with Amanda of @LovelyByLee! Be sure to check out her Instagram and her website!
