Pattern Testing with @PonderandPly

Molly of @PonderandPly is one of the first makers I met in the pattern testing community, and she quickly became a close friend. Molly is not only an incredible maker with the most astonishing photographs, but she is also an amazing human being and supportive fiber friend. Molly regularly pattern tests and designs and she is spectacular at both, so please enjoy getting to know her a little bit more in this interview!

Molly is pictured above in her Vivien Halter, and below in her Anya Hat, Violet Vest, her Bettie Harness (along with @jamesnwatts Best Beret), and a new design that is in the works!

Tell us about PonderandPly! How, when, and why did you start your account and business, and how has it evolved to what it is today?  

Ponder & Ply is my little side hustle where I share uninhibited, slightly exhibitionist, and playful knitwear designs for ALL bodies. The design business itself started for me 2 years ago, or thereabouts, but my journey into the fibre world started some time before that. I have been dipping my toe in and out of knitting for the last 10 years but had no idea the community existed until I started my Instagram. The community opened up my eyes to a whole new world, where other people just like me existed (and there was me thinking I was the only one).

I had been tweaking patterns to fit my own measurements for years prior to starting Ponder & Ply and I was always on the lookout for more “out there” modern designs and never really found any, so I decided to give it a whirl. The more I committed to this space, the more successful my patterns became. I think the real turning point for me was my Vivien Halter and to this day, it is my most bought pattern. But beyond the sales, the most rewarding part for me is the messages I get from women that feel sexy in my designs, that is really what sets my soul on fire. If I can contribute to that in any way, I feel my job is done. If I had to summarise my overarching business objective for Ponder & Ply, it is to make knitters of all shapes and sizes feel sexy and empowered in their knits.

 You might have noticed, I can talk for England… this may be a long interview!

Did you start out as a pattern tester or a designer, or have you always done both? If you started with testing, what did that process teach you about designing? Do you think it was a benefit to start out as a pattern tester?

I started out as a pattern tester a while before I started releasing my own designs. I think testing really taught me the do’s and do not’s of testing. Testing gave me the opportunity to understand what really makes a good test so I could replicate this myself. That’s not to say I have not had to do a lot of trial and error along the way, I am always learning and trying to refine the process for my testers with every test I run.

Having been a tester, I can appreciate the tester’s perspective, I think this is really helpful when communicating and working with my testers. I can say I have been there and I understand, I think this makes me more accommodating. Also, seeing how other designers handle feedback but also the kinds of things they are receiving feedback on, for example about grading for larger bodies, has helped me learn so much and have put into practice in my own designs.

One specific thing I have learnt is the importance of a testers chat when testing. I love meeting other makers and the intimacy this allows with members of our community. It is the community we have built, I value above all else

What was the first design you put into testing? Were you nervous about taking that step? (If so, why?) 

The first design I put into testing was my Veronica Sweater and I have learnt a great deal since then. I was incredibly nervous, I was struggling with imposter syndrome (which I still deal with from time to time) and I really had no idea how to manage it all. I found it very overwhelming and I struggled to find testers due to my reach or lack thereof.

I think a lot of people feel this way at the beginning, like they don’t know what they are doing and can they even justify charging money for their patterns. I doubted myself a lot, I still do but a bit less thank goodness. Anyway I was an absolute mess, all over the place and winged it for the most part, I will say it’s come a long way since then even though I still feel like I am winging it sometimes.

That was the testing, then there’s the whole ordeal of marketing patterns and all the work that comes with a release. My first few patterns in terms of sales were an absolute disaster and I nearly gave up but I did finally find my feet with it all eventually.

I've noticed that you continue to test, as well as design. What keeps you coming back to pattern testing even as a designer yourself?

That’s simple, I LOVE pattern testing. I love helping designers refine their designs, I love learning from the designers and I love finding new people in our community to connect with. Obviously it’s also nice to have a free pattern and there is some marketing benefit to testing for some big names. But really, I just love knitting (and now crochet too) and it’s another way I can join in and show up.

It brings me so much joy and this year especially, that connection with strangers on the Internet has been a real lifeline for me. I am not embarrassed to admit that I have really struggled and I can honestly say that I have met some of the kindest people through our community and feel honoured to call them my friends (you included Kasey!).

Oh and it would be incredibly boring to make only my own designs, when there are so many talented designers out there that I want to support. 

What is your favorite thing about the pattern testing process as a designer? As a tester? What is your least favorite thing about pattern testing (as a designer and as a tester)? 

As a designer, my absolute favourite thing is seeing my design come to life on REAL bodies, it makes me giddy just thinking about it. There is nothing more gratifying than seeing the hours of work you poured your soul into on a beautiful human form, fitting just the way you intended.

As a tester, my favourite thing is the community, I now look for tests that involve a group chat as I love seeing the progress of other people and making more friends! Also seeing the designer be successful, I love being a part of that.

My least favourite thing about testing as a designer is being always on call, I work full time and due to the global reach (which is amazing and blows my mind) I get messages all day and night in the group chat for my test and I do get overwhelmed at times then feel incredibly guilty about not getting back to people straight away. So I guess my least favourite part is feeling like I have let people down. I can be pretty hard on myself.

 I am not sure I have a least favourite thing about testing as a tester, I guess when I take on too much of a backlog with tight deadlines, I put unnecessary pressure on myself. But nowadays I try not to take on more than one at a time.

If you could provide some advice to your future testers or aspiring testers in general, what would it be? 

In terms of tester selection, I always look for people’s personalities to shine through on their IG feed. I love fun photos and people that are unapologetically themselves (in a safe way of course).

More generally, designers really do rely on their test knitters to help create the most inclusive and thought through pattern so bear this in mind when you sign up. Make sure you fill in your feedback and share your photos and do not ghost them. We are human, if you can’t make the deadline for any reason, reach out and say, set their expectations. Any designer not OK with that, you should not test for again anyway. I have had issues with people ghosting me part way through a test and I think this is disrespectful to the designer. Those testers get on the “never to test again list” and designers talk so it may not just be that one designer that you can then not test for.

This all sounds very serious, my main advice is to have fun, do not put too much pressure on yourself and if you are unsure of what is expected of you… ask! I love hearing how I can make my tests more accommodating for people so if you want to participate but need some support, just tell me. Also if there is a mistake in my pattern or it doesn’t fit you like it’s meant to, please don’t be scared to tell me! That’s what we test for. I want to make my pattern the best it can be.

Your pictures are ALWAYS incredible.  Where do you find inspiration for your photoshoots? Any advice for testers who are struggling to take good photos? 

You’re the sweetest thing. I love photography and I have actually started to love modeling (that never used to be the case, I assure you!). A huge inspiration for me is Pinterest, I have boards and boards of pictures saved and find a lot of inspiration there.

My number one tip is to play music that makes you feel good. I used to be incredibly camera shy and awkward in front of the lens but playing music, getting a bit silly and dancing around really helped me get passed this. Also do not be afraid to take a shit tonne of pictures, I always do. Do not be fooled when you see my polished pictures, there are 100 terrible for every good one. Like any skill, the more you practice, the better you get. The other big tip is lighting. Natural light coming in from the side or golden hour light (when the sun is going down) can make all the difference in a photo. You do not need fancy equipment - I literally just use my phone.

What’s next for PonderandPly?!  What can we look forward to in 2021? 

There’s idealist Molly and realist Molly to contend with here. I will answer this question as an idealist but the realist in me suggests this may be a 2 year plan rather than a 2021 plan…

I have 3 yarn collaborations planned with some very talented indie dyers (one you will be hearing about VERY soon). I have a Femiknits Make-A-Long coming up, where I have partnered with my friend Marie to talk all things feminism and have asked people to join in and create their feminist uniform. I’ll let you in on an exclusive secret, for my feminist uniform I am designing a t-shirt inspired by the censorship of female bodies. This may also be the year Ponder & Ply enters the tangible product realm… so there may be a product line or two on the horizon. I hope to release at least another five patterns… chances are slim though! I actually have over 100 designs in my sketchbook but not enough time to deliver them all. Also my anti-loneliness knit night will continue every other week throughout the year for anyone in need of a chat or some sense of community.

Obviously when the odd test presents itself I will have to oblige! I have a huge table of items (Excel is how I roll) I want to make this year so I hope to make a big dent in that too. Gosh, the list is endless. 

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I hope you enjoyed this interview with the talented and beautiful Molly of @ponderandply! Please be sure to head to her Instagram, check out her patterns on Ravelry, get to know her better on YouTube, and join her Knit Night circle to show her some support and love!